Tuesday, August 21, 2012

We're Home!

Oh my, we did it!  And now we are so thrilled to be home.  There is no doubt that we have just completed a trip of a lifetime, but coming home is just as exciting for us right now!  We have increasingly begun to miss our family, friends and all the familiarity in every day life.  My Dad picked us up at the airport and now we're just unpacking, doing laundry, moving back into our house and adjusting to the new time zone before we visit our families later in the week!

We plan to write at least one more blog post with our big picture trip reflections.  It's crazy how much we were able to see in 15 countries over the course of 8 weeks, but beyond seeing countries, cultures and ancient history, we've learned a ton about ourselves, each other and our incredibly faithful God.

Thank you for journeying with us by reading some of our blog.  It's encouraging to hear from family and friends that we were missed, but we can pretty much guarantee you that we missed you more!  So thankful for your support and encouragement.  Be blessed!



Accommodation Recommendation

Over the course of these seven and a half weeks of travel, we've experienced a wide range of accommodations. While this blog is primarily our travel journal and family/friend update, we also hope it can be helpful to anyone planning their own visit to Europe some day.

Below is a list of each city we stayed in, along with whether we would recommend the accommodation (Y=yes, S=sure, N=no) and a brief explanation of why or why not (from what sticks from the experience). Hope it's helpful!

  • London, England - Alan's Godparents Home - Y - very hospitable, made us feel at home, Celia even said our friends could stay here as she loves to support young travellers, obviously we loved staying here!
  • Annascaul (just outside Dingle), Ireland - Paddy's Palace - Y - cheapest hostel of whole trip, free breakfast, check in all hours, although outside of Dingle (15min) it's super close to a hidden gem...a lake with two mountains and hiking trails which we thought made it SO worth it because it felt so Ireland
  • Doolin (just outside Cliffs of Moher), Ireland - Burren Hostel - Y - 10mins driving to cliffs, used to be a nice hotel so bathrooms, kitchen, games rooms are super nice, favourite part was the nearby delicious restaurant, Wild Honey Inn, and the traditional Irish pub with authentic music and locals both in three minute walking distances
  • Dublin, Ireland - Four Courts Hostel - N - to be honest, Dublin was one of our least favourite cities because we think the best part of Ireland is driving the green hills, hiking and enjoying actual traditional Irish music... Dublin is way more touristy but if you do stay there, this hostel wasn't terrible it's just that we were in a 16 person room (that's a lot of people going in and out, sleeping at odd hours, etc) and I felt uncomfortable about the showers (busy coed space, curtain only, tiny with no place to hang anything so you have to leave your clothes outside the bathroom)
  • Brugges, Belgium - Y - Snuffel Backpacker Hostel - great location in little Brugges, they rent bikes for you right there, helpful advice at desk with great maps, free breakfast, rustic place, super small spiral staircase up to rooms which is fun ha - one negative, which I think brings down their ratings and keeps their prices low is that the showers are down the stairs, through the lobby/bar area and out the back door but its not a big deal at all, in our opinion ha
  • Amsterdam, Netherlands - MPS Noorderzon - Y - this is a canal BOAT super close to the train station!, we booked here to avoid the notoriously wild, party hostel situations we'd heard of and this turned out to be a fantastic plan, super kind older local couple run this hostel boat and have at least eight rooms, we had our own room with bathroom, larger room than expected for a boat, great map and advice, rent bikes from macbike at station and then just bike backpacks 5mins to the boat before heading out for the day, get healthy breakfast and wifi from top floor city view of brand new library within 5mins of boat
  • Berlin, Germany - S - trouble finding it from train station but it was late at night, decent location, the decor is super hip and chic with funky chairs and couches, fee for breakfast but worth it, it feels like a party waiting to happen but you don't hear any of the bar stuff from the nice rooms
  • Prague, Czech Republic - Michaela's "newly reconstructed cozy room" AirBnB - S - I feel bad giving it a sure because Michaela was extremely kind and hospitable, however the location was at the very least a thirty min walk to the old town and river, walking to her place from the station was exhausting as it was a very steep 20 min walk with our packs, I'd recommend using public transit if you stay here (Michaela is the best host and gives fantastic local eating and doing advice) or finding something closer to the old town because of all the steep streets in Prague
  • Krakow, Poland - Overnight trains - Y - we arrived in Krakow at eight am, did a full day Auschwitz tour (which made all the extra costs and time of going to Krakow very worth it for the chilling exposure to the reality of the Holocaust... if you can't get here, go to Dachau in Munich, Germany because a train friend who went to both said they are different but both very impactful) and then hopped on another train at nine pm, sleeping on an overnight train killed two birds with one stone (p.s. Eurail pass does not get you into Poland, we had to buy these tickets separately) and was just cool to do for the experience, we were in "couchettes" so there were six in our room total, it's extremely tight, hot and difficult to sleep with abrupt train stops but still hilarious and fun!
  • Vienna, Austria - Wombat's City Hostel - Y - great hostel, very new and hip with their decor, however if you have to choose one city in Austria definitely go to Salzburg and forget Vienna
  • Budapest, Hungary - Akos' "Blue and red next to the Parliament" AirBnB - Y - great location for walking along the river and seeing both sides, Buda and Pest, free breakfast, nice host to chat with - however, just to inform in case this isn't your style, you sleep on a mattress on the floor and he doesn't have maps or specific tourist advice
  • Salzburg, Austria - YoHo International Youth Hostel - Y - definitely stay here and book your sound of music tour with them when you arrive so you get their discount, breakfast is a fee but decent so most guests get it, very helpful people at front desk, nice rooms and beds, blow dryers in women's showers (very rare ha), 5min walk to Die Weiss restaurant which gives big portions and is full of locals, 10min walk to river and old town, voted one of Europes famous hostels, note: very, very few places are open on Sundays in Salzburg
  • Munich, Germany - Euro Youth Hostel - Y - great location, walking distance to Haufbrauhaus is about 10min through pedestrian only streets, electrical outlets, lights and curtains at comfy bunks, big room of 12 beds didn't feel large somehow, breakfast is a few but we recommend it, hip place with really helpful front desk people and tour bookings, we did Disney Castle and thought it was worth it
  • Venice, Italy - Martina's "MatyMarty's W. Central Room WIFI" AirBnB - Y - even if you are not sure about trying AirBnB just give this place a try!, we loved our experience here, Martina met us across the bridge from the train station and walked us to her place in 7mins tops, it really helps to have someone guide you to your accomodation in Venice (believe me, so many people were lost and frustrated with their heavy luggage), ask her about the local pizzeria, grocery store and wine shop in the nearby square - all awesome, room is very spacious with two big windows on third floor opening up into classic Italian street views, washing machine wasnt working so she insisted on doing our laundry for us!, you share the bathroom and kitchen with one other double bed room which is great to have other travellers if you want to make friends, important note: you will find cheaper accomodation on the shore, near Venice, but it is so worth it to pay the extra little bit and be IN Venice so you don't have to worry about catching buses out, etc., it's just so awesome to walk back to your flat and feel like a local!
  • Rome, Italy - Hotel Colloseum - Y - this place is not for the budget-youth-conscious but we had the privilege of staying here one night thanks to Taylor & Leanne, it's wonderful in all regards... location, beds and room, complimentary breakfast, elevator, free maps and especially their rooftop terrace with amazing city views, 10min walk to main train station, it's a whole in the wall but I'd consider it a hidden gem!
  • Civitivecchia, Italy (the cruise port for Rome, one hour train out of city for only five euros) - B&B Casamica - Y - we found this place on hostelworld and it was perfect, host is a lovely woman who lives with her young family below the rooms, private room and bathroom, excellent breakfast for a little fee that's usually set up on the deck that views the ocean, tvs in room, plus she drove us and our big packs to the cruise boat docks the next morning!
  • Mediterranean Cruise - Celebrity Equinox - Y - this was our splurge so it's not at all a great budget choice but we loved every bit of the cruise!, we also thought it was the best way for us to see Greece and Turkey as we have heard the Mediterranean boat/ferry schedules can be very inconsistent and frustrating, we both agree that Celebrity cruise line has the best quality food, accommodation, entertainment and ports either of us have experienced - I tend to enjoy reading through tactful marketing schemes but I honestly believe that it's Celebrity's commitment to being the best that makes them the best (I can hear the smirks, but see it to believe it haha) as all employees are super kind, fun, work their best and constantly seek constructive feedback
  • Rome, Italy - Mario's "Blue room in Trastebvere Area Rome" AirBnB - Y - Mario is super friendly, goes out of his way to help sort out plans and give directions, free breakfast with fruit! (huge rarity when free), our own room and bathroom, he has two or three other rooms so there's an opportunity to meet fellow travellers, location is good in this large city but we'd definitely recommend getting a day transit pass for six euros each to get around easier, go to Rome Baptist Church by bus if there on a Sunday, ask Mario about the pizzeria he recommends close to the apartment... three euro pizzas, really cool walk through busy squares to get there
  • Florence, Italy - Camping Michaelangelo - Y - super cheap, sleep in three person permanent tarp tent that feels like a cabin, bus takes you straight there from the train station for about one euro each, right next to the best view of the city especially at night, Olympics were shown on a huge screen, restaurant/bar and grocery store on site, bathrooms and showers kept impressively clean - if you don't like the camping style of things (walking to the bathroom in the dark, being in a hot tent during the day, etc.), don't stay here haha because you are camping!
  • Cinque Terre, Italy - Mar-Mar Riomaggorie - Y - great place to stay, private room and bathroom, mini fridge and table to eat at by window, reception office really helpful and accommodating, it's like a hotel but seems like apartments are in a bunch of different buildings nearby, grocery stores with fresh fruit and veggies on way up street to here, no wifi but there is at bar directly across the street (which can be loud at night but stops at one am and isn't heard with window closed and fan on), awesome window to people watch from and hang laundry out
  • Nice, France - Villa Saint Exubery Beach - Y - this hostel is awesome, definietly one of the best we stayed in, chef Daniel made us the best chicken salads we've ever seen or tasted for six euros each, during free breakfast they had one staff person stopping at tables helping people plan out their day and giving awesome tips (this was so original and actually so helpful even though we were just going to the beach), umbrellas and beach mats can be borrowed from the hostel, they do your laundry for you for a small fee, 6min walk to beach and you are even closer to the old town and flower market, voted one of Europe's famous hostels
  • Montreaux, Switzerland - Montreux-Territit Youth Hostel - Y - location is fantastic as its right on the lake and situated between the train station and famous castle, free breakfast, chef makes affordable and filling three course dinners, very clean, only slight thing is that it's right next to the railroad tracks so you may need ear plugs if the louder trains bother you
  • Interlaken, Switzerland - Balmer's Herberage Hostel - Y - this is also one of the best hostels we stayed in, voted one of Europe's famous hostels, classic Swiss lodge feel, free breakfast, free bus pass during stay, amazing front desk with knowledge about tours, bus times, restaurants, etc, great atmosphere of travellers, kitchen facility with large fridges is great when trying to eat cheap in expensive Switzerland, I think they also have private rooms, stay here!
  • Lucerne, Switzerland - Lion Lodge Hostel - S - nothing stands out about this place, it was a good place to sleep for one night as the showers and bedrooms were very clean, 15 minutes walking distance to lake and old town
  • Paris, France - Bertrand's "Charming Studio Champs Élysées" - Y - fantastic place to stay, you get the whole apartment to yourself which has a bed, mini stove, mini fridge, kitchen supplies, bathroom, great shower, tv, wifi, etc., location was excellent, ten minute walk to Eiffel Tower or Arc de Triumphe, 2 minute walk to groceries, 1 minute walk to metro line, host is super helpful upon arrival and has such a wealth of helpful tips for planning your time in Paris, if we ever go back we'll stay here again
The "Y"'s mean we DEFINITELY recommend the place. We were fortunate to have great experiences with practically all our accomodations. If you ever have questions about these accomodations or the cities we stayed in, believe me when I say I'd be more than happy to chat! I love trip planning and would thoroughly enjoy helping with your trip.

- Julia

 

Inside our Packs

So we've been traveling out of one backpack each for seven and a half weeks. Before we left, we hummed and haa-ed over our packed items, wondering if they were good choices. At the end of our travels, it's quite clear to us what was awesome and what could have been left at home. Here's what we brought... 

Clothing (what Julia packed)

- 3 shorts... khaki, jean, sports

- 1 pair of khaki capris

- 2 skirts

- 8 tank tops

- 4 t-shirts

- 3 cardigans

- 1 bathing suit

- 1 pair of pajamas... shorts, tank

- 3 bras

- 10 underwear

- 1 rain jacket... make sure it's super waterproof

- 1 pair of stretchy yoga pants

- 4 pairs of socks

- 3 shoes... runners, sandals with back, black flip flops

- 8 dresses... six casual, two fancier for cruise

 

Shower

- tiny pack towel from MEC... dries quick, used at beach or for picnics too

- shampoo and soap travel bottles... so you can throw them out along the way, worked out well that we ran out just before the cruise and then stocked up with cruise supplies

- used flip flops in showers

 

Packing

- backpack... important to have good back support and more of weight on top of pack, rather than sticking out behind like Andy's (however, it was key to have a mini day backpack that zipped off of Andy's)

- ziploc bags... a must! this was so helpful to pack our clothes in large, good quality freezer bags to make it easier to pull specific items out and pack up with some organization... also great to use for shampoos, contact stuff, a shower bag, wet bathing suits, etc.

- stuff bags... prior to the ziploc idea, we had purchased three colourful stuff bags that worked well but are just way more pricey than quality ziplocs

 

Gadgets

- IPAD... we used this multi-purpose tool every day

- camera with bag

- Europe electrical converter... for charging electronics at night

- kobo... aka. electronic reader

- watch

- IPOD... music, sermon podcasts, etc.

 

Other

- medicine... advil, gravol, tylonel, etc.

- ear plugs... key for hostels sometimes

- regular sized lock... useful for some hostel lockers

- sunglasses

- plastic folder with necessary paperwork

- 3 tiny tide sink packets... used these on cruise and hung things to dry throughout room

- 6 washing machine soap sheets... great to have so we didn't have to purchase soap

 

It seems like a lot but if the clothes can roll up tiny, it works and I didn't find my pack to heavy. Mine weighed around 9kg and Andy's just under that. Hope these lists are helpful!


 

- Julia

 

 

 

Sightseeing in Paris

Yikes, this is going to be a BIG post. There is just SO much to see in Paris. Out of all the places and big cities we've been to on this trip, we felt there was the most to see in Paris! There are so many unique neighborhoods, interesting historical sites, world renown art museums, cathedrals, etc. to explore in this huge city. During our time in Paris, we did the following in this order over three days...
1. Palace of Versailles (see post by Andy)
2. Arc de Triumphe
We saw this magnificent arc at night and during the day from a distance. One of the most interesting things for us to observe here was the massive traffic circle. They are everywhere in Paris but we really sat and watched for a while here. There are no lanes, and surprisingly minimal honking as cars, buses, scooters, taxis and the occasional brave biker cut each other off in effort to enter and exit the round-a-bout.
3. Picnic lunch at Eiffel Tower
I just loved being near the tower! The structure's form is just so pleasing to the eye. With other tourists and locals settled into a shady picnic spot, it makes for a lovely, carefree atmosphere.
4. Biking city bikes
Paris recently, I think only a few months ago, got the Velib bike program. London has this same program. Basically, the city has purchased a ton of bikes, placed them all over the city and now anyone can pay a small fee to hop on a bike and drop it off at any of the MANY Velib bike racks. It's such a brilliant idea! They hold 150 from your credit card in case you didn't bring it back, but if you don't mind that, it's free for 30 minutes and only one euro for the full hour! We did this twice and loved it. Biking along the south side of the Seine River was the best as we went through the Old Parisian area. Oh, also, I have to mention that one night we noticed they have a car program like this, right on the side of the road (see picture)!
5. Norte Dame Cathedral
We're in our last Europe city and had seen a ton of cathedrals so I was surprised at how much I appreciated Notre Dame. I think it was my favourite one because it was so unique with dark archways, huge intricate stained glass and the intimacy created in such a huge building.
6. Conciergerie prison
This building is part of what was a palace for the French monarchy. However, when the monarchists were overthrown by the Republicans, the palace became more of a prison run by the head concierge. There is quite an intense history within this building as the Republicans began a "reign of terror", executing many who we against their radical movement. This is the prison where Marie Antoinette (previously France's Queen, who ignorantly responded to the people's need for bread by saying, "Let them eat cake!") was held in prison before her public execution in the Place de la Concord.
7. Scenes along the Seine
The Seine River keeps busy with your boats, many lovely bridges, vendors along its banks and even beaches along the shore. We enjoyed looking on.
8. Gelati in Place de Vosges (Victor Hugo's house here too)
Oh my! This place had the BEST ice cream we've ever come across. We each got one scoop but you are allowed unlimited flavours within your "one" scoop. There were five employees scooping away and laughing with one another. I got hazelnut and raspberry. Andy got chocolate chunk, vanilla and some nut one. We sat in the park/square just steps away. It was recommended by a ladies daughter from Andy's placement and also housed Victor Hugo, author of Les Miserables.
9. French cuisine in Marais neighborhood
Saturday night was our special night out in Paris! We found a reasonably well priced place to eat and each ordered two course meals (sharing my salad and Andy's chocolate cake). Oh goodness, I should also mention that we sat at another restaurant prior to this, looked at the menu and sheepishly snuck out because we couldn't understand any of it and it was too pricey for the real meals. We were so embarrassed and I tripped over a ladies shopping bag while we were trying to be sneaky haha. Anyways! We ended up having a fantastic dinner in a really cute neighborhood of cobblestone streets and cute shops. Couldn't help but take a bunch of food photos haha...
10. Eiffel Tower at night round two
We went back a third time to watch the tower sparkle again and soak up Paris at night... the city of light!
11. Metro day
The metro is amazing in Paris! They have 14 lines, not to mention other buses, local trains and regional trains. We had no problem navigating in their public transit system. London was the only other big city with such an impressive network of public transit.
12. Walking to recommended bakeries or restaurants that were closed for August!
Ok so all of Paris is on vacation for the month of August! The locals that we're still around informed us that everyone in France gets five weeks vacation and can use four weeks consecutively so most take off the month of August. Awesome! However, not so awesome for our attempts to check out recommended bakeries or restaurants. Haha we didn't walk too far for it to be annoying, so it just became funny how many shops had signs in their windows saying they'd be back late August.
13. Sacre Coeur and City View
This Cathedral is perched on a hill overlooking the city. It was a nice church but the best part was climbing the 300 steps to the dome with 360 degree views of the city! It was cool to see the Eiffel Tower from up there.  Also, I just love the way Paris is laid out. It flows.
14. Chocolate macaroons in Monmarte
Yum! In the Monmarte neighborhood surrounding the Sacre Cour Cathedral, we found a famously delicious chocolate shop. We each got one large macaroon and enjoyed every bit as we watched the most creative street money makers in all of Europe (guessing gambling game with acting tourists, signing petitions then asking for money, putting the loop of a bracelet on a tourist then making it and charging them, etc.).
15. Place de la Concord
In this massive square you can see the Arc, Louvre, National Assembly and what looked like a theatre. It's also where many of the anti-republican citizens were publicly hung during the reign of terror, including Marie Antoinette. We didn't stay long as there was no shade and we were thirsty!
16. Louvre/Palace Gardens
Lots of people hang out in these gardens, using the lawn chairs provided as its not permitted to sit on the grass here. We filled up our water bottles twice here and enjoyed having a brief rest.















17. Free photography exhibit
Located on the large gardens by the Louvre, was a building that seems to hold different art exhibits at different times. When we came across it, there was a photography exhibit by Ahae. It was phenomenal! The photographer had spent three years shooting over 2 million pictures out ONE window in South Korea. The result was stunning. It was incredible how many different scenes he could capture outside the one window. I took his card and would love to eventually own a piece of his.












18. Louvre (see post)
19. Lovers Bridge
We locked our love to the Lovers Bridge in Paris. It's a funny little tradition and I'm not sure when it started but it sure is popular because the wire bridge was filled with shiny locks! The idea is that a couple brings a lock and it's keys to the bridge, carve their names into it, lock it to the bridge and toss the keys into the river... thus locking their love forever. Haha ok, so it's kind of silly but we had to leave our mark in Europe somehow! I also secretly hope our future kids would find it interesting to find their parents lock on the bridge someday ha.














20. Crepes in front of the Odeon Theatre

To finish our last night in Paris, we had French crepes! Delicious! We sat in front of the Odeon Theatre (must be where Cineplex Odeon gets his name).















Paris is an amazing city! There is SO much to see! Unlike many of the cities we've seen on this trip, we could see easily spending an entire vacation just in Paris. Loved it!
- Julia




The Louvre




























One could spend a full week exploring the many sculptures, paintings and famous art pieces in the Louvre. Not only is the artwork incredible, the building was formerly a palace and is jaw-droppingly impressive. I had trouble focusing on the artwork at some times because the architecture, grandiose stairwells and ceiling murals had my attention.

Being as it is tourist season, we were forewarned of massive lines and difficulty accessing the most famous pieces. We had also read that visiting the Louvre can be a very overwhelming and frustrating experience. The museum itself is massive (five floors, three huge buildings) and the stairways, halls and maps were said to complicated.
Sooo, we developed a strategic plan of attack. As neither of us are big art fanatics, we looked up a few top ten lists and went from there. We arrived after the crowds at four pm, only giving ourselves two hours to tackle the Louvre. With a map and our own pencilled out museum route we were set! In between practically running across the museum from piece to piece, we were able to stop, soak in, appreciate and attempt interpreting the artworks. For us, this was the right way to see the Louvre. There were tons of staff to confirm route directions with and we didn't feel concerned about not seeing everything (definitely impossible in one, even two days).
I was not only impressed with the artists and their works but how these pieces have been preserved (the Egyptian squatting scribe sculpture is over 4000 years old!). It was also pretty awesome seeing Mona Lisa. Yes, it's smaller than you'd probably imagine, covered by a large glass window and surrounded by agressive tourists elbowing their way to the front for a picture (a laughable sight). Even if you don't know much about art, visiting the Louvre is an experience you wouldn't want to miss in Paris.












- Julia